Dragon fruit Seviche from honestcooking.com
Orientals had been rather passe. I’m not sure when the turnaround came, but sometime around the end of the oughts, oriental perfumes came back into fashion and the previously ubiquitous fruity florals were back- catalogued. Something had shifted in the zeitgeist, or fashion, or the cloudy upper ether of the fragrance world.
I realized that the change was complete when I leafed through a book on Berlin fashion and discovered that some cool Berliners were now wearing Frederic Malle’s Dries Van Noten (a woody oriental, specifically an update of Nuit de Noel and Bois des Isles). They wouldn’t have been doing that five years ago. Continue reading
Vanilla almost seems made for the woolens of fall and winter, a comforting and almost a warming scent. But vanilla can also have cold aspects or allude to boardwalk in a heat friendly way, one that I’ve learned to take advantage of with both recent and vintage scents. Continue reading
Do you have a smell from childhood that you loved-anything from your Mom’s perfume to your dog’s paws-and what was it?
The smell of sleepy warm kittens in the sun. My grandmother’s bottle of Tabu by Dana. The fragrance of hot rice boiling on the stove. Nestle’s chocolate chips in a small ceramic ramekin.
Are you a synesthete, do you “visualize” odors, or “taste” colors, and does it affect your output?
Yes, each fragrance ingredient and accord is perceived as a specific color. I have thoughts along the lines of, “This accord needs more blue”, (or white, or green, etc.)
The indigo accord of lapis lazuli, violet ink, and Parma violets, is significant to the new fragrance of Indigo Vanilla (to be released in May, 2014), and is a perfect example of my synesthesia, as well as my wish to share it with others.
How do you see people using your perfumes, as accessories, personal signatures, or therapeutically? Continue reading
You don’t associate Carmel with enchantment. Just south of Monterey, you associate Carmel with shoreline and views of the Pacific, magic-not so much. However, one of the more interesting independent US perfumers lives and produces there, Shelley Waddington of En Voyage Perfumes. She has a style. This is a very simple way of putting it but bear with me. When you are used to industrial perfumes, coming across arresting artisanal work is like tasting micro-brewery beer when all you’ve ever drunk was Miller Lite: a revelation. That is what you get with Shelley Waddington’s scents, revelations. Continue reading