Tag Archives: Sarrasins

Classic Soliflores?

The Pearl in in full bloom

Single note floral perfumes used  to be short lived on the market.  Back in the day they were called “handkerchief” perfumes because in the pre-Kleenex era, you sprinkled a drop of rose or lavender water on your handkerchief rather than your skin. Those little fragrances “sent bons” were miniature essays in the perfumer’s art.  Not many of those perfumes survive today. No one wears Yardley’s Lavender, or Coty’s Jasmin de Corse, few wear Tea Rose the big late seventies hit from Perfumer’s Workshop, and Creed Fleur de The Rose Bulgare is diluted out of recognition- which makes me wonder- which are the  new classic soliflores?  Which ones will survive for decades on the consumers’ skin? Continue reading

Five Jasmines for June

Redoute Jasmine

Every year there seem to be too many jasmine perfumes on the planet. You would think that something would come  along to thin out their population, but they proliferate anyway, though the truth is that there are better ones and worse ones out there.

There is something about jasmine that makes it special, apart I mean from being the queen of perfume ingredients, and that is the fact that even those who love their perfumes heavy and full of resins can trend lighter with jasmine and not feel dissatisfied. Jasmine is the one floral that even customary Oriental wearers can love. Here’s my list of five favorites. Continue reading

On the Jasmine Spectrum

jasmineThe new Aerin Lauder range has just been released, and along with the news that she is now a billionaire because of her share in the company’s stock, it was the most one had seen of her in the media for a long time.

Ikat Jasmine was in the pages of Vogue and I have been admiring it for the clean understated floral that it is, and observing that it falls into the sweet and fresh part of the jasmine range.  Having grown jasmine, I noticed that the scent falls into a spectrum of sorts the first day is the smell approximated by Ikat Jasmine, the second day takes on the famous stinky notes, which some French writers call odeur de femme, that underline the sweetness, and then on the third day the blossoms turn purple and fall off the plant with a decidedly indolic smell to them. Continue reading

Had a Wife but Couldn’t Keep Her

Peter_Peter_PumpkinThe subject of the last line is, of course, Peter Pumpkin Eater.  Pumpkin is not on the short list of things that make me enthusiastic about anything, but according to the Smell and Taste Treatment and Research Foundation in Chicago, it’s the combination of pumpkin and   lavender that does it for men.

Really.

Pumpkin.

Lavender.

Uh huh.

You can forget your Shalimar, never mind the Mitsouko, detonate your Flowerbomb without him because it’s pumpkin and lavender that men love and respond to (the smell of cinnamon buns come in second by the way). Continue reading

Serge and the Great Siege

Vigiles_du_roi_Charles_VII_51What kind of a world would it be now without M. Serge?  Before he came along with Feminite du Bois, followed by his host of Moroccan inspired scents, the microcosm of French perfume was hermetically sealed in its fortress.  Its influences were internal, its masterpieces were Parisian, and no one could really unseat Guerlain or Caron or for that matter Chanel, in a joust of elegance.  They were the champions, and everyone else just prayed not to fall off the horse. Continue reading