Tag Archives: Nu

Looking For Shanghai Lil

Shanghai LilPerhaps you’re not familiar with Footlight Parade of 1933 with Ruby Keeler and Jimmy Cagney?  This was the movie that came to mind when I ran across Tom Ford’s Shanghai Lil the other day.

The reaction of other bloggers to this scent has been rather like that of Cagney, Lil is irresistible they say and highly original.  I was a bit less struck by the fragrance’s originality since I recognized the lily top notes as being similar to my Gardenia Petale’s, the Van Cleef & Arpels fragrance from some years ago.  They probably share a high end floral material, although the green side of the floral is stressed in Shanghai, and not so much in Gardenia Petale which eventually devolves into a vanilla lily of the valley note. Continue reading

The Perfume House That Does Not Catch On

It can happen.  For preference, you need a hit to avoid that catastrophe.  It doesn’t have to be a mainstream hit.  You don’t have to come up with the next J’Adore, but you do have to come up with something that makes the perfume world buzz just a little- like a disturbed hive.

Certain perfumers have a knack for this.  Andy Tauer certainly does. His L’Air du Desert Marrocain still comes up on lists of things that the perfume-obsessed wear, and write about, and rhapsodize over.  Pierre Guillaume is good at it too, he only has to stare hypnotically at a camera to sell perfume bottles, although the heck of it is, his stuff is surprisingly good, and if he resembled a cross eyed nanny goat I’d still think so.

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