Tag Archives: Montale

Through a Looking Glass Darkly

alice-entering-the-looking-glass-world-by-sir-john-tennielThe perfume house of Mugler has become one of the most innovative ones in the world.  Forget niche perfumery (most of the niche companies, anyway). If you want something totally new and different, half the time that something will come from Mugler.

The company didn’t focus test Angel back in the day because they knew the scent would be too polarizing. It didn’t matter; the stuff swept off the market triumphantly with a huge hit.  Proving, I suppose, that to be a true entrepreneur takes true grit no matter whether you are selling smart phones, Bitcoins, or …perfume.  And although I may never have taken to the blue Angel, millions of other people have, and by now Angel’s structure has inspired dozens of similar perfumes, everything from Flowerbomb to Magical Moon. Continue reading

An Homage to Amouage

BEDOUINSI spent Saturday in exotic company, my three companions were the Guerlains Rose Nacre du Desert, Songe d’un Bois d’Ete, and Encens Mythique.  They were startling to encounter because they all do what Guerlians used to do, namely last, have a sillage, and project an air of luxury.  A few posters on line have called this series Guerlain doing Montale, but I bet these three were Guerlain doing Amouage, and possibly doing Amouage better than Amouage does itself. Continue reading

The Zaftig Floral

Florals come in all shapes and sizes.  Some are fusspots, some are exercises in carnality – tuberose comes to mind – and some are simply comfortable.

Of all these varieties, I find the comfortable ones, the ones with curves and a tendency to sit down on the job quite a lot the most pleasing.  They are seldom completely synthetic, since formulae that are molecularly sparse just don’t conjure up the requisite Mae West or Lillian Russell curvature. You need some big juicy naturals there to fill out a bottle.  The zaftig perfume is bodacious.

She’s also built for comfort and not for speed, so the formula is never simple or sleek, and the zaftig is seldom a soliflore perfume.  In fact I can’t think of a one that is based on a single flower.  They need to be big generous bouquets, the sort that fill your arms and start falling all over the carpet.  What actually fits this criteria? Continue reading

(Rose 7) – La Bee en Rose

“When I consider every thing that grows Holds in perfection but a little moment;”

Shakespeare on beauty, probably human beauty, since it seems to have been a frequent melancholy observation of his that it’s fleeting.

However, the observation’s just as applicable to the rose.  Even long blooming hybrid teas have a day, at most two, when their bloom and fragrance are at their most intense, and that’s the moment that I always want to find in a rose perfume.

This may be an oddball ambition.  Lots of people find that soliflore perfumes really don’t settle in well on their skins.  There’s a fundamental mismatch going on along the lines of ”We’re members of different kingdoms, you and I. You’re from the Animal and I’m from the Plant and we have got to stop meeting like this.”

Continue reading