Perfume Sins

Some scents just won’t charm other people

If you asked me this a few years ago I would have agreed but reluctantly that some perfume wearing is just in bad taste.  Perfume is something that has only recently ( in historical terms) become discussion worthy. Perfumes The Guide came out ten years ago, and compared to all the preceding years when perfumes were neither discussed nor assessed, that’s a very short time.  I remember decades when it was very difficult to find out anything at all about perfume and what little I did discover came from reading: Edmond Roudnitska, Elizabeth Barille, Michael Edwards,even Jean Pierre Coffe, who as I recall Le Bon Vivre, did not think much of Cartier’s Le Panthere.

In the interim there has been an explosion of discussion. The industry itself, despite all the chit chat, remains secretive, and self contradictory in its aims. It’s certainly not clear that all  mass perfume makers want to produce consistently high quality.  What they want to produce is something highly profitable, and the parameters of what constitutes a reasonable profit seem to expand all the time.  It’s now axiomatic that packaging costs far more than content.  Should it?  This product is largely water anyway. Continue reading

Ylang Meringue: Terracotta Le Parfum

Terracotta Le Parfum , the bergamot meringue stage.

Terracotta Le Parfum at the bergamot meringue stage.

I was saying goodbye to my local Saks, or to be more accurate I was saying goodbye to the Guerlain counter, when what should I run into but this year’s Guerlain limited edition: Terracotta Le Parfum.

It’s just a bit confusing because I thought that Terracotta was last year’s LE. Silly me, no.  Terracotta had proven too much of a hit to be left to languish and so here it is again smelling like a composite of a number of perfumes that Guerlain has had on the roster in recent years, and you might  be excused for thinking that the famous Guerlinade was actually a meringue-ade, but who cares?  Terracotta is such a confection, it seems mean spirited to quibble. Continue reading