Tag Archives: Lutens

The Osmanthus of Our Dreams

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThere is no more warm and radiant note.  If you like peaches or apricots the smell of osmanthus is perfect, a floral echo of your favorites, and back in the day before all the synthetic mimicry of fruits became possible in perfumery, osmanthus was the only real peach imitator.  Then along came the aldehydes, and peach notes became commonplace.

But this is one of those flowers in perfumery that remain poised and perfect, balanced on the dividing wall between what is sensual and what is ladylike.

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On the Jasmine Spectrum

jasmineThe new Aerin Lauder range has just been released, and along with the news that she is now a billionaire because of her share in the company’s stock, it was the most one had seen of her in the media for a long time.

Ikat Jasmine was in the pages of Vogue and I have been admiring it for the clean understated floral that it is, and observing that it falls into the sweet and fresh part of the jasmine range.  Having grown jasmine, I noticed that the scent falls into a spectrum of sorts the first day is the smell approximated by Ikat Jasmine, the second day takes on the famous stinky notes, which some French writers call odeur de femme, that underline the sweetness, and then on the third day the blossoms turn purple and fall off the plant with a decidedly indolic smell to them. Continue reading