Le De Givenchy in reissued bottle
Every Spring turns into summer and then scents with a touch of tropics are what you crave. Anyway they’re what I generally go looking for, though in the case of Ylang Ylang, I seldom succeed. It’s very difficult to discover ylang starring as the main note of a perfume rather than as supporting player. Ylang is like the blonde in a Film Noir, obligatory, seldom featured, often dying in the first reel.
Some years ago I spent an entire summer wearing I Coloniali’s Javanese Cananga which was the closest thing I have ever found before or since to a ylang ylang soliflore. There are some claims made for Micallef’s Ylang in Gold but I have never smelled that and wonder if it ever emerged from the vanilla pudding vat into which so many Ylang Ylangs tumble. If you are lucky those vats are full of creme anglaise made with cream and if you are not, they are Jello mix made with skim milk. Continue reading
“Some of the most beautiful perfumes are like a ball gown, but sometimes you just want to wear a comfortable pair of jeans.”
Dandelion Clocks by Pippalou
At this time of year, the ball gown analogy, though apt, breaks down to “the most comfortable pair of jeans”. Today was too lax and lazy for anything formal at all. I had been planning to wear my Guerlain LE Plus Que Jamais, but that was simply too grand. I had to roll around in Krigler’s Juicy Jasmine instead, the equivalent of a pop tune, rather than wear the complicated Miles Davis jazz piece that Plus Que Jamais is, or to continue the original comparison, shrug on a slightly slubby maxi, instead of a cocktail dress.
Does summer call for this sort of fragrance? I think so. In fact I can’t make myself wear anything that requires complication or thought. I just want comfort.
To this end I’ve compiled my brief list of End of Summer Perfumes, suitable for hammocks, barbecues, and porches. Their common denominator is the low number of easiness. These are perfumes that almost anyone can wear and enjoy whether a newbie, a collector, or a perfumista with a perfume population explosion. Continue reading
Every year there seem to be too many jasmine perfumes on the planet. You would think that something would come along to thin out their population, but they proliferate anyway, though the truth is that there are better ones and worse ones out there.
There is something about jasmine that makes it special, apart I mean from being the queen of perfume ingredients, and that is the fact that even those who love their perfumes heavy and full of resins can trend lighter with jasmine and not feel dissatisfied. Jasmine is the one floral that even customary Oriental wearers can love. Here’s my list of five favorites. Continue reading
It is frightfully cold in the Midlantic states and New England this winter, and in the natural order of things I should be wearing amber (see preceding post) but only really like Jean Claude Ellena’s ambers and you can’t wear them all the time.
Besides, it’s rather hothouse-ish and true to my Southern roots to side step all this amber and load up on greenhouse blooms, even to excess. For one thing the cold air corsets their huge sillages, making them fit into everyone else’s atmosphere. Cold puts the white floral on a reducing diet, suddenly she’s slender, even chic. Continue reading
The new Aerin Lauder range has just been released, and along with the news that she is now a billionaire because of her share in the company’s stock, it was the most one had seen of her in the media for a long time.
Ikat Jasmine was in the pages of Vogue and I have been admiring it for the clean understated floral that it is, and observing that it falls into the sweet and fresh part of the jasmine range. Having grown jasmine, I noticed that the scent falls into a spectrum of sorts the first day is the smell approximated by Ikat Jasmine, the second day takes on the famous stinky notes, which some French writers call odeur de femme, that underline the sweetness, and then on the third day the blossoms turn purple and fall off the plant with a decidedly indolic smell to them. Continue reading