Tag Archives: Calyx

Ballgowns or Jeans?

“Some of the most beautiful perfumes are like a ball gown, but sometimes you just want to wear a comfortable pair of jeans.”

Christopher Brosius

Dandelion Clocks by Pippalou

Dandelion Clocks by Pippalou

At this time of year, the ball gown analogy, though apt, breaks down to “the most comfortable pair of jeans”. Today was too lax and lazy for anything formal at all. I had been planning to wear my Guerlain LE Plus Que Jamais, but that was simply too grand. I had to roll around in Krigler’s Juicy Jasmine instead, the equivalent of a pop tune, rather than wear the complicated Miles Davis jazz piece that Plus Que Jamais is, or to continue the original comparison, shrug on a slightly slubby maxi, instead of a cocktail dress.

Does summer call for this sort of fragrance? I think so. In fact I can’t make myself wear anything that requires complication or thought. I just want comfort.

To this end I’ve compiled my brief list of End of Summer Perfumes, suitable for hammocks, barbecues, and porches. Their common denominator is the low number of easiness.  These are perfumes that almost anyone can wear and enjoy whether a newbie, a collector, or a perfumista with a perfume population explosion.  Continue reading

Magical Marigolds: Lauren, Flor Y Canto, Sleeping with Ghosts

wiki/File:Flor_de_ofrenda.JPG

wiki/File:Flor_de_ofrenda.JPG

Yes, the same little annuals you have planted in your vegetable patch to discourage insect predation, those are the ones used in perfumery, or to correct myself, they were used in perfumes.  Tagetes (which is their proper surname) seldom put in appearances in fragrance formulas anymore.

Once they were common enough.  In the eighties when the first generation of fruity florals came out, tagetes were frequent top notes in scents.  They had a strong but slightly fruity touch to their herbal tartness and so ended up in compositions like that of the original Lauren, Weil’s Bambou, and Calyx. Continue reading

Ante-Meridian

Sleeping womanGenerally, I don’t mess with perfume until the afternoon.  This is not a hard and fast rule so much as it is habit.  There is simply no point in trying to get yourself completely turned out at seven a.m. or earlier-which it often is around here-unless you have to catch a plane or something.

Still there are times when the morning fragrance is a helpful prop, literally, when you have to get up and get going pronto.  I have written about this phenomenon before, and then my choices were distinctly prickly perfumes, things that got you up and held up up at an early hour. But there are gentler ways of waking up as well. Continue reading