As I was going through the usual blizzard of new releases this season, something struck me: no one perfects perfume anymore. I know perfectly well that there are art directors at Amouage and Guerlain and Chanel and so on, but because the business model of perfumes has become the model of planned obselescense, with buyers most interested in the novelties (little suspecting that the novelties are often oldelties) you get a paradox, an ocean of novelty, mostly already passe. Continue reading
Yes, I like amber. Everyone does, or nearly everyone, and that’s why practically the first perfume released by any niche firm is either an amber or else an amber floral, aka floriental.
Ambers are also the big money makers. Serge has got Ambre Sultan, Annick Goutal has got Ambre Fetiche, I Profumi di Firenze has got Ambra di Nepal, and then there’s Ambra di Venezia, and Parfumerie Generale’s L’Oiseau de Nuit. I have barely scratched the surface. Ambers are everywhere, and there is some confusion as to what amber actually is, amber confuses me as well since half the time it seems to be an amalgam of labdanum (otherwise known as rock rose, or Cistus) and vanilla.
But that’s not the real thing. Continue reading
You were thinking that I meant the Titanic, perhaps? Actually, I was thinking of the Normandie. You may also be wondering what exactly this has to do with perfume? Well, the ocean liner was launched in 1935 and the first class passengers on the maiden voyage received bottles of Normandie the perfume in silver holders. Continue reading