The Coty Rose

La Rose Jacqueminot in the orginal bottle

La Rose Jacqueminot in the orginal bottle

So I finally went and bought a small bottle of la Rose Jacqueminot.  This dear readers is the very first perfume composed by Francois Coty, before he did La Rose he had only composed eau de cologne and it was his debut.

To tell the truth I’m a little bit nervous.  I bought the bottle blind which is something I never ever do.  But I have gradually been getting used to the Coty style and this was a bottle of EDP.  They are not getting any cheaper with time. It was this moment in the beginning of French perfumery I really wanted to experience or to inhale, even if the result might not be a perfume I loved.

Because there are a lot of Coty perfumes I do come close to loving.  I have never been able to get over Emeraude.  It is called an oriental but I think the categorization is  a bit off here.  Emeraude comes across as more mild floral oriental than a full on oriental, and was inspired by Jicky which is a fougere.

Francois Coty

Francois Coty

Equally I found L’Origan to be much more wearable, even in its debased form, than many of its progeny.  I try to wear L’Heure Bleue but in the end, find myself back admiring the genre from a distance. L’Origan in a better production I might wear, and as for Chypre there’s a perfume I could really and truly love and wear frequently.  It is so comfortable not too much anything, and yet, inimitably itself.  Chypre is sort of abstract but also strangely, quite specific.

L’Aimant is ridiculously easy to adopt.  Now there is a aldehydic floral so simple to wear and become addicted to that only Arpege rivals it.  It sat on my shelf one winter and got along with every other perfume I wore and was warm and friendly and modern.

Even the lesser Coty’s aren’t bad. I’m thinking of perfumes like Les Muses which is an excellent jasmine soliflore on a dry sandalwood base done by Vincent Roubert after Coty’s death. A large number of women grew up on L’Effleurt, which is one of Coty’s flowery compositions and possibly his tip of the hat to Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs.

L'Aimant in another recent form

L’Aimant in another recent form

There isn’t any reason for me to be worried that La Rose will be something too big for me to wear, or too loud, or too vulgar, because although Coty was an arriviste, his perfumes were always in impeccable taste.

Nevertheless I am slightly concerned that this will contain too much violet for me.  I do not really care for synthetic violet, and know it is a big player in La Rose, as is a tobacco note.  The Tobacco is no sort of problem for me, I live for tobacco perfumes.

Well, it’s too late now. the bottle is on its way, and I shall just have to report back on the latest of my Coty acquisitions.  So many things can go wrong between a bottle and a wrist…

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8 thoughts on “The Coty Rose

  1. Bravo! I do hope you like the Coty Rose.

    Coty has produced so many delightful things. I’m with you on the Emeraude and L’Origan.

    In the late 1980s we used to live near Sanford, North Carolina which had a giant Coty manufacturing plant and an outlet store for discontinued perfumes and cosmetics. Wow, did we go wild there. Sand & Sable for everybody, Stetson, Sable & Pearls, L’Effleur, you name it. We grabbed it. Sadly, it’s closed.

    Lately I’ve reminisced about the 1965 Coty release of IMPREVU. It was in McCall’s magazine and 3M had just invented the scratch and sniff paper samples. I was only 10 years old at the time, too young to buy much, and I always loved the French name, Imprevu, which means “The unforeseen” or “The unexpected”.

    Today I see on Ebay a lot of Imprevu vintage bottles some half-empty for sale (at rather exorbitant prices). But would it hold its original scent or be totally off? Should I consider instead the new online “fake perfume” labs that claim to recreate original fragrances of the past? Are their concoctions true to the originals?

    Any suggestions about Imprevu?

    I do hope the Rose Jacqueminot gives you value for money and no regrets.

    • Wow lucky you living near an outlet! Very nice.

      On Imprevu I have heard various things and at least one poster on Fragrantica says that the dry down smells like old shoes. If you know it and can get it cheaply I’d say fine, and recommend flea markets for this sort of purchase. They’re much more reasonable than Ebay.

      As for the scent matching services, has anyone heard anything good about them? If so I’d like to hear it, so far what I’ve read is not encouraging. 🙁

  2. Gee, that’s a big step! I hope it works out. I have some vintage L’Aimant, and it is so very beautiful, but on the turn. I hardly dare wear it for fear of using it, but it is deteriorating anyway so why shouldn’t I use it? So stupid. I think I once had a bottle of a more recent version of L’Aimant but was disappointed and gave it away.

    How I wish I could zap my self back in time to when these perfumes were fresh and beautiful and inexpensive. If I had a time machine and could go browse a perfume counter in … oh … 1950 or so, L’Aimant would be one perfume I’d be aiming for. Rochas Femme too. I might also plonk myself down in the 70s or 80s for a bottle of Dioressence as well.

    Period costume would be supplied.

    • Tight flared trousers? I’d have to diet before hitting the time travel button.

      Dioressence that was a good one, and I know what you mean about the Cotys. I didn’t for ages and was actually taught about them by fellow bloggers like the Muse in Wooden Shoes and Meg at the late Parfumieren. L’Aimant was a revelation to me. All I had ever come across in Europe was Imprevu.

      Chypre and Emeraude are two which I don’t think I could resist, oh well, L’Aimant too. BTW apparently a set of reconstructions was made for the French market a few years ago. It included L’Origan, Emeraude, Jasmin de Corse and La Rose Jacqueminot. Ooh the envy!

      • No, you would magically fit into the flares, and for 1950 we could do you a nice suit from Balenciaga. 🙂 Although now I think of it, a Balenciaga customer would likely not bother with Coty, would she?

        Love to smell those reconstructions!

  3. The Jacqueminot rose is the official flower of the sorority Alpha Omicron Pi. It was named after a French general. He also had a silk farm on his property.

    So with Jacqueminot fragrance, you are a Sweetie Pi.

    Thanks for warning on modern lab-made perfume and Imprevu like old shoes, maybe I dodged a bullet.

    • Certainly hope all Imprevus are not that difficult, but I would always smell first-er- except when buying La Rose J.
      Thank you for telling me I’m an wearer of the Alpha Omicron PI official flower-nice to know … Never wore an official floral before.

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