So I finally went and bought a small bottle of la Rose Jacqueminot. This dear readers is the very first perfume composed by Francois Coty, before he did La Rose he had only composed eau de cologne and it was his debut.
To tell the truth I’m a little bit nervous. I bought the bottle blind which is something I never ever do. But I have gradually been getting used to the Coty style and this was a bottle of EDP. They are not getting any cheaper with time. It was this moment in the beginning of French perfumery I really wanted to experience or to inhale, even if the result might not be a perfume I loved.
Because there are a lot of Coty perfumes I do come close to loving. I have never been able to get over Emeraude. It is called an oriental but I think the categorization is a bit off here. Emeraude comes across as more mild floral oriental than a full on oriental, and was inspired by Jicky which is a fougere.
Equally I found L’Origan to be much more wearable, even in its debased form, than many of its progeny. I try to wear L’Heure Bleue but in the end, find myself back admiring the genre from a distance. L’Origan in a better production I might wear, and as for Chypre there’s a perfume I could really and truly love and wear frequently. It is so comfortable not too much anything, and yet, inimitably itself. Chypre is sort of abstract but also strangely, quite specific.
L’Aimant is ridiculously easy to adopt. Now there is a aldehydic floral so simple to wear and become addicted to that only Arpege rivals it. It sat on my shelf one winter and got along with every other perfume I wore and was warm and friendly and modern.
Even the lesser Coty’s aren’t bad. I’m thinking of perfumes like Les Muses which is an excellent jasmine soliflore on a dry sandalwood base done by Vincent Roubert after Coty’s death. A large number of women grew up on L’Effleurt, which is one of Coty’s flowery compositions and possibly his tip of the hat to Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs.
There isn’t any reason for me to be worried that La Rose will be something too big for me to wear, or too loud, or too vulgar, because although Coty was an arriviste, his perfumes were always in impeccable taste.
Nevertheless I am slightly concerned that this will contain too much violet for me. I do not really care for synthetic violet, and know it is a big player in La Rose, as is a tobacco note. The Tobacco is no sort of problem for me, I live for tobacco perfumes.
Well, it’s too late now. the bottle is on its way, and I shall just have to report back on the latest of my Coty acquisitions. So many things can go wrong between a bottle and a wrist…