The Glamorous Scent of Peonies

Festiva Maxima from hiddenhillsgardens.comf

Festiva Maxima from hiddenhillsgardens.comf

In the heart of the big white peony known as Festiva Maxima there’s a very subtle scent.  You simply poke your nose in among the petals and you get many fragrances rolled together in the circumference of a single flower.  This is ready made perfume, perfection and not so many other plants produce fragrance so rounded and so complete.  Festiva Maxima does though.  I can only think of the Silk Tree as competition for another fine female fragrance finished down to the last molecules; an entirety of organic perfume.

Pink peonies have a similarly sophisticated scent but it’s  just a bit more pronounced and carries further.  Pink peonies have a sillage, and one of my  Mother’s dogs used to adore their perfume.  She was the only dog I ever knew who would literally go and smell the flowers.  A German Shepherd labrador mix, she had an acute nose, but a delicate, almost feminine sense of what smelled respectively good or bad, peonies were her clear favorites.  She never was too much into my dog’s preferred scent Eau de Dead Squirrel.

Some years ago now, around the turn of the century you got quite a number of soi disant peony perfumes.  You could color me skeptical then and you still can these days. Most of the time given the size of perfume budgets allotted to perfumers they will never have a snow ball’s chance in Havana of recreating the opulent fragrance of the peony.  You simply can’t do it with cheap ingredients, or at best you can do some of it for fifteen minutes and then your perfume will smell as most do now, of industrial perfumery

Cartier's L'Heure Diaphane from profumo.net

Cartier’s L’Heure Diaphane from profumo.net

scenting detergent. Currently the residue of Dreft on our washing smells better to me than many a dry down, and most peony fragrances suffer this same dwindling effect on skin.

Still with that proviso in mind, I will recommend two perfumes. One is with some trepidation because it is really expensive, but the Cartier Heure Diaphane (VIII) does seem a true floral portrait of the peony.  Of the whole series I really only liked two and this was one of them. It is fearsomely priced though for eau de toilette so this is a must try before purchase and one time when I’d recommend a decant.  (Usually I don’t since you can often find samples in major cities, and I prefer to see creators, particularly small companies benefit from their releases) The Cartiers are hard to come by though.  This is the work of Mathilde Laurent and displays her delicate touch with florals. (My other favorite in this line is L’Heure Convoitee or II the only good modern carnation.)

Much easier to find and also by a highly talented nose is Jo Malone’s Peony and Blush Paeonia_'Festiva_maxima'Suede composed by the new Hermes perfumer Christine Nagel.  This is chic and if slightly less realistic, also perhaps more versatile as a scent.  Good for the summer, office work, and layering with other fragrances. Peony and Blush Suede is also a great deal more affordable, something you can try out for a season without breaking the bank.

Peonies though still escape perfumers to my mind.  In the end the best way to enjoy them is to do what I’m doing now. Inhale. I get: jasmine (Egyptian at least) white rose (light rose only- not much) cream, beeswax, hard milled soap, the faintest touch of delicate leather, and maybe… ambergris?  No one radiates that except the peony itself.

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4 thoughts on “The Glamorous Scent of Peonies

  1. Hmm, I have tried that Cartier and unfortunately cannot bring it to mind now. Vert Pivoine by Histoire des Parfums is a rather nice rendition of the note, though it is not one I am usually drawn to – also not in nature. Purely an oversight on my part, I am sure. The rose gets more of a look in as it is more of an obvious nostril-pleaser.

    • Oh maybe not an oversight.

      There is something ever so faintly stinky in peonies. Now I enjoy this little bit of skank, but not everyone does, and you may have majority tastes in this case. I recall you not caring for civet for a long time :-)

  2. I love peonies, but somehow never the bright ones – light pink or white, please. (Silk tree too, though I grew up calling it “mimosa” and not knowing the difference!) I haven’t tried either of your recommendations, though I do like Convoitee and I really liked JM’s earlier Peony & Moss, which unfortunately was an LE and my sample is gone.

    MDCI Rose di Siwa smells like Sarah Bernhardts to me, and is utterly swoony – but then my favorite peonies smell rosy.

    • Ooh, Sarah Bernhardts in perfume! Oh yes please. MIne are utterly finished now, and I wish they lasted longer. Must try Rose de Siwa again.
      Have you ever tried the trick of cutting a bud and putting it in a sealed freezer bag in the vegetable keeper (they stay fresh almost as long as carrots) and they putting them in a vase and they bloom?
      I tried this a while ago and it does work, but it felt weird to have peonies blooming n August.

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