This, due to my having cut my hand pretty well last night and so typing with three fingers, is going to be a very short post. I hope you will excuse my terseness this time out, but I recently had an interesting encounter with a vintage perfume, Pavlova actually. Which was named for the ballerina of course not the delicious meringue dessert. (Although I do love a good pavlova!)
Payot came out with this fragrance in 1977, but some perfume books notably Fabulous Fragrances, Jan Moran’s guide, date the scent to 1922. Was there an earlier perfume? La Pavlova was certainly very famous in the 1920’s, dying a swan’s death on stage with astonishingly regular fidelity all over the world. Payot as far as I know is a French skin care company, these days moving into the Chinese market.http://www.payot.com Pavlova, must have been one of their forays into the perfume world. If so, then their effort was a success.
Pavlova was a tuberose bouquet somewhat similar to perfumes like Chloe and Michelle, or Bill Blass, and more recently Fragile, but softer than any of those. As a teenager I owned a bottle of Chloe and found the white flowered honeysuckle beginning very beautiful. Pavlova differs here by employing a bunch of green notes ( my sample is forty years old so these are muted now, but still distinguishable) including black current bud, hyacinth and galbanum. The effect is powder puff softness, actually swansdown I’d say, and surprisingly about a half hour in, the tuberose bouquet which began as a restrained note, acquires wings, and becomes airbourne. Wow, this swan takes off. Color me startled.
Pavlova’s is one of those styles of perfume due to make a comeback. Why? Well I figure that if pinky/soft floral muskies are flying off of shelves in the Narciso style, why not bring back the ultra feminine feathery bouquet? Tuberose bouquets are particularly good choices for this job since the public likes tuberose. They also seem to like the powdery and the dainty, “With it’s tuberose note set in a very classical context, clean and elegant, Chloe seems like the properly married sister of the brazen Fracas.” Luca Turin wrote of the original successful tuberose bouquet note in 1994, when it was already nearly twenty years old. Maybe ultra feminine is ready for its close up. Again.