Monthly Archives: February 2016

Daffodils on the Wind

Daffodils in full bloom

Daffodils in full bloom

February is about to turn into March, it makes me think that I should clean out all my wardrobes, take the coats to the dry cleaners, wash the sweaters, and clean out the perfume closet because one day soon incense will make me recoil.  Does everyone wear perfume seasonally?  I always have, partially because everywhere I have lived there have been sequential seasons, and it was difficult to ignore their cold and heat, and wear the same thing.  You could stock a rudimentary scent wardrobe by selecting one scent for summer and one for winter, but even that strained the Spring and Fall dichotomy.  Unsettled weather, weather that changes from day to day, is hard to plan for and hard to choose for, your old favorites are too stuffy and warm or too evanescent and light.   What can you wear in between perfume seasons? Continue reading

Till the Weekend Do Us Part

An 18th century couple

Married Couple  by Jacques Dumont 1733, Notice the dog, symbol of faithfulness.

Once upon a decade I had a signature perfume and that time is so far behind me now that I have trouble remembering what it was.  Oh yes, Chant d’Aromes, and in the summer Eau de Hadrian.  It was pretty halcyon,  you never had to think about what to put on.  It was always the same stuff.

I wonder what would happen if I wore the same perfume for a work week?  Continue reading

Alaia Urban Smog

James Abbott Macneil " Nocturne"

James Abbott Macneil
” Nocturne”

There are a lot of scents out there these days which strike me as only one part of a perfume.  Alaia which I have been smelling  round  me on scent strips (from Saks) is certainly one of them. I’m kind of amused that many bloggers think that it’s a wonderful modern perfume.  Alaia’s the coda to a modern perfume.  There’s no heart, and no beginning, you could call this linear but there isn’t enough of a high note to pull you in. It’s a base.

Alaia smells totally synthetic and there is something dark and tarry that I remember from the days when I was toying with Kate Walsh’s Boyfriend (remember that? No?) and  from Estee Lauder’s Sensuous Noir, although that had more of a presence than Alaia. Continue reading

Shakespeare’s Rose ?

Old Velvet or Tuscany Rose from roguevalley

Old Velvet or Tuscany Rose from roguevalley

As a rose nut- enthusiast- I almost always notice when period films include modern roses.  You’ll see impeccable costumes and set decoration in a drama about Cromwell, or Henry the VIII but the roses are bright red hybrid teas that never existed before the twentieth century.  Although plenty of roses grew, they just didn’t radiate the harsh aniline dye color spectrum which breeders, maybe imitating twentieth century clothing, introduced to the flower garden.

Elizabethans actually had a full cast of roses strutting and fretting their brief hour in garden beds.  We know about them from Gerard’s Herbal, that very useful book written by a near contemporary of Shakepeare’s, John Gerard (1545-1611/12) who was in fact for a time a neighbor of Shakespeare’s, because Gerard was Master of the Barber Surgeon’s Company which was located in a hall nearly opposite Shakespeare’s lodgings in Mugwell (now Monkwell) Street from 1598-1604.  So he may well have seen Gerard’s garden and all the roses there. Continue reading

On Magnolias, Being Southern, and Pierre Bourdon

The Old Bull Bay magnolia

The Old Bull Bay magnolia

Not necessarily in that order.

Perfume taste is different in different parts of the world, and it’s even different between states in the US, which is admittedly a big  place. New York likes strong novelty perfumes, the niche stuff, you smell a lot of ambroxan, a lot of synthetic oud.  Jersey likes fruitchoulis, and up market Jersey buys Bond No 9 and Creed, especially Virgin Island Water. Connecticut so far as I can smell depends heavily on the township, from low to very high end. Californians I understand go for the flowered stuff and will buy naturals.

If you’re Southern though you have been born with a fondness for the smells of humid afternoons in late Spring.  I know, because I was and the scent of magnolias, of gardenias, and of those big old weed trees locusts, are among my favorites.  Now here is a new perfume from Pierre Bourdon no less, with a 60% concentration of magnolia absolute and I cannot get my hands on a sample! Continue reading