Last year I went through all of January and most of February in white florals. I simply couldn’t stand another minute of coldness or snowiness, or thought so and spritzed accordingly. Along about the middle of February doesn’t everyone think so- unless they are in Australia?
This season I was not so careful. Now the cold and the doldrums of late winter have caught up with a vengeance. I can’t face another drop of incense or one more amber perfume till next fall-what to choose?
If I were picking something main stream and recent I would go with Francis Kurkdijian’s Carven Le Parfum. Done in his sparkling weightless style, this is a perfume that although largely synthetic is still prettiness itself, and there is a bright sweet pea portrait smack in the middle of the crystallized sugar bouquet that he’s arranged for the fragrance like a latter day Faberge. I have not smelled anything better in this modern vein, and recommend this one as a scintillating way to end winter.
If I were looking for mimosas I would be stymied. The best mimosa fragrances relied on having some naturals in them to evoke the slight cough drop note that is in living mimosas as well as their green quality. Most of the time they are recreated with some version of heliotropine or its synthetic successors and the results are powdery and often undistinguished. Although mimosa is not the primary focus of Aftelier’s Honey Blossom nevertheless there is a mimosa note in the perfume and I would choose this among natural perfumes as the most reminiscent of mimosas in bloom. Extremely honeyed, soft and almost impossible to dislike, Honey Blossom would be my selection among naturals.
Finally from the vintage perfumes, I still think that Annick Goutal’s Charlotte is the most charmingly mimosa centric scent of recent decades. The perfume consists of an accord of blackberry jam, cocoa and mimosa flowers and you smell all of these components in what is a delightful and very young scent appropriate both for the young and for everyone else. You can find a good deal of Eau de Charlotte on Ebay, but look for miniatures or older bottles where the quality is probably higher. Needless to say, I wish us all a speedy end to the last of Winter.