Lonicera is the proper surname of of honeysuckle, but no matter which name you happen to call this vine you can’t mistake the scent. It’s frankly one of my favorite fragrances on earth, and commonly found growing in enormous mounds at the seashore, a gorgeous, white floral fragrance with a fruit undertone from a plant that is sometimes not much more than a garden nuisance.
Surprisingly though honeysuckle isn’t that easy to interpret as a fragrance. You would think it would be a very simple exercise for perfumers, but that seems not to be the case. Continue reading
Honeysuckles from flowerinfo.org
Should a human smell like a flower? My answer to this is that women in particular, but sometimes also men, have endeavored to smell just like flowers for centuries. Well bred women were recommended to steer away from bouquet perfumes in the past, especially those which were too expansive. Also the scent of certain flowers such as tuberose were considered too risque for the young or the innocent.
The Countess Bradi who wrote an etiquette book in the 19th century writes,” I forbid you to use manufactured perfumes, however I consider those diffused by natural flowers to be perfectly permissible…” So for women floral perfumes were fine once upon a time, but more than a hundred years later Luca Turin was wondering why any woman would want to smell like a flower? The answer is that flowers smell wonderful and we would like to as well. Also, there are times when complicated perfumes, ones with olfactory twists and turns and blind alleys are like mazes, and on certain days we would prefer not to have to thread our way through them. Simplicity gets you from point a to point b directly and that can have a charm of its own. Continue reading
Changing perfumes a lot is the bane of the fume obsessed. We all do it. If you are in the business of reviewing on a regular basis you’re more or less required to change perfumes in order to write about the next one, and after a while all this can get dizzying.
What’s my smell you ask yourself, and you may even miss the old days when your signature smell was No19 or Chant d’Aromes or Stella, or whatever it may happen to have been. Sometimes you want to bridge that gap between the old perfume and a new one and make that transition without all the usual rejection problems you get with unfamiliar scent. Continue reading
Christmas roses from mybotanicalgarden.com
Last year I went through all of January and most of February in white florals. I simply couldn’t stand another minute of coldness or snowiness, or thought so and spritzed accordingly. Along about the middle of February doesn’t everyone think so- unless they are in Australia?
This season I was not so careful. Now the cold and the doldrums of late winter have caught up with a vengeance. I can’t face another drop of incense or one more amber perfume till next fall-what to choose? Continue reading
Strange to say, especially ahead of Valentine’s Day, I am not a chocoholic. That craving is so widespread that it is hardly worth asking people if they like chocolate any more-almost everybody does.
I can take or leave most chocolate, however one place where I do actually like the component is in perfume, partially because chocolate introduces heavy notes so well, and brings floral formulas back to earth. Some chocolate notes go further still becoming the harbingers of shadowy exoticism, even the macabre. One of my recent purchases celebrates the chocolate note in just such a sinister way. Continue reading
Black cat superstition in action
Irrationality is at the core of humanity, just like a pit in an avocado. Superstition is part and parcel of this and while I like to think of myself as not being superstitious nevertheless I am.
Case in point being the “unlucky perfume”, there are some I give a wide berth to because something bad occurred every time I wore them. Ridiculous right? But true.
I have never been able to wear Narcisse Noir and the reason isn’t even something that happened to me but that I happened to read Black Narcissus. Unlucky just to read about a nun going off a parapet you know. Besides there’s the whole superstitious aura surrounding nuns there. Then a screening of Sunset Boulevard finished me off entirely. Narcisse Noir scared me and when I actually smelled it, that perfume spooked me. I just don’t wear NN as a precaution. Continue reading
Gysy Rose Lee wearing little more than scent
How girly can you go? It’s a question unique to each wearer of perfume. Some of us are comfortable with the uber feminine, and some of us are not. The girly perfume to me isn’t even a matter of sexuality, it’s a matter of celebrating your feminine side. Some people can do that joyfully. The girly frag is made for them.
Perhaps it’s as well to say at the beginning that the girly frag is likely also to be the sweet fragrance, but here I part company from those who say that girly frags need have no personality or quality other than their candy tonality, their giggles, and the pink which seems to be their birth right. You can be girly and interesting, even defiant, consider Taylor Swift’s spurning of Spotify for instance. Is she girly with a backbone? Continue reading
The iris has been called funereal. That may be true, the scent of irises is a bit dark and a bit heavy, but that is only one aspect of the scent to be sure. There are others: the creamy soft note that is in the orris butter itself. You find that in few perfumes because the synthetic irises do not mimic the butter note successfully. The only place I find the note in all its unctuous spread on bread glory, is in my bottle of Parfums de Nicolai Balkis, and my bottle is an old one, presumably the first version of that fragrance. The fat deposits of iris, the gourmand part if you like, are there in the scent after the initial raspberry note subsides. Then all of a sudden you catch the soft malleable scent of orris butter and this is a creamy scent that practically makes my mouth water. Only later do the purple crepuscular aspects of iris creep in like twilight at a pastry shop. In this case the intermingled scent of raspberry jam, bourbon roses and abandoned coffee cups lingers
on like ghosts at a Konditorei. Continue reading