Every year there seem to be too many jasmine perfumes on the planet. You would think that something would come along to thin out their population, but they proliferate anyway, though the truth is that there are better ones and worse ones out there.
There is something about jasmine that makes it special, apart I mean from being the queen of perfume ingredients, and that is the fact that even those who love their perfumes heavy and full of resins can trend lighter with jasmine and not feel dissatisfied. Jasmine is the one floral that even customary Oriental wearers can love. Here’s my list of five favorites.
1) Serge Luten’s Sarrasins: This almost linear rendition features a very good grade of jasmine and like its downmarket little sister Jasmine et Cigarette, has a distinctly tobacco smoke backdrop. This languid nicotine fragrance twists about on the humid air of midsummer like the winding fumes from so many packets of Players. Very sophisticated, for the Marlene Dietrich wannabees amongst us and better for evenings.
2) Krigler Juicy Jasmine: A fruity rounded jasmine, the fruit being apricot to my nose and the softer edges of this perfume being gently smudged with vanilla. Again, an almost linear jasmine, but modified to fit the contours of your everyday life and wearable in daytime. Optimistic, almost bubbly, this is a fun fragrance to take on vacations.
3) Caron’s Acaciosa (Current Version): The topnote of Acaciosa is fruity but the fruit in question is pineapple and the pineapple is juicy and possibly marinated in a smidgen of cognac. From this tasty melange, Acaciosa melts down to a highly feminine, floral macedonia, with other flowers involved, most notably rose. A good choice for foodies, as Acaciosa compliments many white wines. But the jasmine here is high quality, as jasmine is the signature note common to all Carons. This version is one of the old House’s best, still reliable after all this time. A beautiful formula.
4) Providence Perfumes Hindu Honeysuckle: This is a perfume constructed along the same lines as Estee Lauder’s Tuberose Gardenia, only the alternating flowers here are jasmine and honeysuckle. The Honeysuckle note is the more difficult one to keep going, and remember this is a natural perfume, so I get the honeysuckle as a beginning, and then in whiffs. The scent ends on a pretty natural jasmine. As this is a perfume from perfumer Charna Ethier, who loves to work with jasmine, you get a particularly successful version here. The equal of the Serge Lutens in lasting power on my skin, this is highly recommended for jasmine lovers.
5) Coty’s Les Muses: Sadly only to be found on Ebay as a vintage number these days, LM is the driest of these offerings, so dry that I think it would work very well on a man, and could be used in Fall. The slightly retro but elegant opening of this perfume is so lovely that you forgive it for being out of date, and the warm jasmine of its heart together with the sandalwood of its drydown make LM one of the most gorgeous jasmine perfumes I’ve ever smelled. To try if you can.