The new Aerin Lauder range has just been released, and along with the news that she is now a billionaire because of her share in the company’s stock, it was the most one had seen of her in the media for a long time.
Ikat Jasmine was in the pages of Vogue and I have been admiring it for the clean understated floral that it is, and observing that it falls into the sweet and fresh part of the jasmine range. Having grown jasmine, I noticed that the scent falls into a spectrum of sorts the first day is the smell approximated by Ikat Jasmine, the second day takes on the famous stinky notes, which some French writers call odeur de femme, that underline the sweetness, and then on the third day the blossoms turn purple and fall off the plant with a decidedly indolic smell to them.Jasmine perfumes tend to fall into one or another of these zones, and if you like your jasmine redolent of sex and eventual death and other such potentially sexy momenti mori, the skull in the still life, then you are not going to care for this new Lauder. This is first day jasmine, suitable for vacations, young girls, and theatre visits; no one will get up and move seats because of you and your perfume.
There are other jasmines, a good number of which were mentioned recently by the Nonblonde, a wench who admittedly loves a stench, but that roster contains a number of sensually smelly jasmines. Lutens’ Sarrasins made her list, as did the more lady like Juicy Jasmine of Krigler. Don’t be fooled by the name, there is nothing artless or naïve about that scent, it is rich and fond of a good old time, and could have been worn by Paulette Goddard in The Women. If Ikat jasmine is clean and chaste, Juicy is for lack of a better phrase, sex positive.
But there are jasmines that are dirtier still, jasmines that never seem to change their underwear, and those can be good fun to wear, though not perhaps at this time of year. I still mourn the disappearance of Mona di Orio’s Oiro; that was great good dirty fun, and seems to be gone now. You can imitate the dry down with some jasmine oil from Egypt in a little coconut oil, and that is a less expensive option.
I also love the expansive old Acaciosa of Caron, which has nothing much to do with acacias to my nose but quite a lot to do with jasmine. The first part of the fragrance with its pineapple element is very indolic-downright ripe, you worry that the pineapples were fermenting maybe, but afterwards the jasmine rises through this heavy fragrance phase, going from narcotic to sweet to flowery and finally ending in the cheerful freshness that is similar ground to the new Lauder’s.
Or, in other words Acaciosa traverses the jasmine spectrum but does it from stink to pink, and also manages to maintain a cheerful holiday tone during its excursion, which is a day trip. Acaciosa is not a perfume for evenings or brooding. It is like a bottle of good white wine light but nuanced. I think it’s the nuance I’m missing so far from this new Lauder perfume.
Where do you fall on the jasmine spectrum?