If you think about it, not too many other animals worry about the nature of their scent signature in the way that most of us do. It’s a uniquely a perfumista (er) concern. We are identifiable by the way in which we always carry breath mints (because we can smell halitosis in millionth parts of any atmosphere, and therefore fear we’re spreading it, and therefore, carry mints).
Or you can spot us by the tiny glass vials rolling around in our hand bags, refrigerators, or bathroom cabinets, sometimes labeled, sometimes not, though the most common symptomatic action of the perfumista is the wrist sniff. Sometimes this behavior is surreptitious and sometimes, having become reflexive, quite unselfconscious, but we all share it.
But we are quite harmless. Any scheming we do is largely concerned with obtaining a sample, or possibly a decant of something we really, really, really want that particular week, and is not of the world dominating sort.
However, if there were evil perfumesters, the Dr. Evils of the scent world, what would they wear? What does Mr. Supervillain spritz himself with of a morning? I would love to know.
If I personally have to supply an answer, then I’d say one candidate is Mark Buxton’s MB03 from parfumkunstwerke.* Now that is an evil laugh of a perfume. MB03 is related distantly to big bad animalic orientals, like Tabu, or Bal a Versailles, but is more spicy than Bal, covered by a coating of black pepper with some touches of vanilla and incense in the initial phases of the perfume.
Buxton characterizes the fragrance as “the dark side of power”, but the scent is elegant, surprisingly so, a Nehru jacket of a perfume on a bad lad, and when I compare it to another Buxton creation, Cologne Noir for Van Cleef and Arpel’s high end collection, MB03 is more nuanced and has a better, less harsh smelling dry down, although both have this same black pepper opening.
Is there some Animalis in the end? I don’t think so, but there is a dirty musky note that will suit those who like to advertise their walks on the wild side. At the same time, MB03 is obviously an art collector, with a civilized sensibility. Don’t you jostle his Rothko’s on your way past his shark tank (ok, sea bass tank, but they are ill-tempered sea bass!)
If the Hub ever takes to crime in this delicate and ultra refined manner, I shall certainly recommend this scent, guaranteed to suit plutocrats, private equitists, Russian oligarchs, super villains, oh and warlocks and witches, very, very well.
* My sample was courtesy of the distributors of Parfumkunstwerke.