Monthly Archives: April 2012

Why So Few New Classics?

Why are so many new perfumes failing to become staples in the public’s wardrobe?  It’s a good question.  We still wear perfumes that are quite old by the estimation of the Industry. D&G’s Light Blue came out in 2001, Dior’s … Continue reading

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Missing Emeralds

“Aunt Alicia slid the great square emerald onto her slender finger and was silent for a moment. “Do you see…that nearly blue fire which burns at the heart of the green light…only the most beautiful emeralds contain that miracle of … Continue reading

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Forgotten Fougeres

In the beginning was Fougere Royale. That’s fougere pre-history to you and me.  We live in CW era, to be specific, the post Cool Water era.  Cool Water was such a tsunami in the world of fougeres (the fragrance based … Continue reading

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Strange Brew

If it is true, as Mike Myers suggests, that most Scottish cuisine is based on a dare, what are we to make of the foundations of perfumery? We are, after all, talking some pretty rank stuff – extrusions from the … Continue reading

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The Elusive Gardenia

The striking thing about the gardenia most people would probably say, is its idiosyncratic perfume. It can be a polarizing scent.  Luca Turin called it “…the flower smell that I rate as the most irresistible and impossibly pretty on earth.” … Continue reading

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Befriending the Bandit

Sometimes I think that the first perfumer anyone who is interested in perfume learns about is Germaine Cellier (1909-1976?).  This figures, because she was such a glamorous entity. There she is, in black and white photos, wearing her well-fitted tailleurs … Continue reading

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Some Like it Hot

Then there is the perfume in which the whole spicy carnation floweriness I have been writing about sinks in a morass of heavier, hotter materials like a bouquet in a lava flow.  The one time floral composition becomes an oriental … Continue reading

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The Carnivorous Carnation

You may not think of carnation as being an aggressive kind of a flower.  I don’t certainly, but the fact is that Caron, the Parisian perfume house founded in 1904, seems to have meditated on the many ways to make … Continue reading

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The Carnation Factotum

Sometimes floral notes are out of step with the times.  It’s not that they have two left feet and can’t dance to contemporary tempos.  It’s our fault, because we keep changing the beat.  Right now we like to drink all … Continue reading

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Flowers You Never Smelled in the Spring

There is such a thing as the completely synthetic floral.  Some companies admit this, most do not.  Many perfume houses put the money, i.e. the naturals, up front and from there on out it is a matter of synthetics used … Continue reading

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