The Green Two Stroke Engine

There are whole genres of perfumes out there which are supposedly familiar terrain, only I find that in fact they’re almost completely uncharted territory, I’ve never really explored  them properly at all.

Take, for instance, the green floral.  The very first one was supposedly Vent Vert composed  by Germaine Cellier in 1947.  I had a bottle of the 1992 reconstruction and never found it wearable because there was a tendency towards thinness.  In fact, I’ve always noticed this in regards to green florals, and it wasn’t until the other month or so when I read an interview with Pierre Guillaume the perfumer and founder of Parfumerie Generale on Grain de Musc that I understood why.

He pointed out that most green florals don’t have basenotes properly speaking.  Instead, the last evaporation of the heart notes serve as a basenote.

Now that, to me at least, explained a lot.  Why  it was that most green fragrances were not long lived, and why they had this truncated feeling to them.   Were they like the American lives F. Scott Fitzgerald used to cite, possessing two acts but no final one?  It was an interesting thought.

To me though, the image that comes to mind most persistently is not of lives long or short but of the old fashioned two stroke engine.  It was the dominant design in motor engines for the first several decades of the twentieth century ( actually I stand corrected.  It was not the dominant engine model but it lives on in lawn mowers) and then someone came along and invented the four stroke engine and we’ve had faster acceleration and more powerful cars ever since, but what if you’re stuck with antiquated technology?

I smell the problem in old green florals such as Jean Patou’s Vacances (a lovely fragrance it is true but not the most complex of the Patous)  Vacances is all about the duo of mimosa and lilac underneath a very green veil of galbanum and hawthorn, but once that duet is over, so is the fragrance, and the same has to be said for the Pierre Bourdon green The Mistresses of Louis XIV that he did for the Romea d’Ameor line.  It starts out hyacinth and daffodil, then it becomes a modern day version of Guerlain’s Chamade and then dies off.  No one is getting these green engines to rev seriously.   They just choke and stall at a certain point in the evaporation process and then it’s over.

This is even true of one of this Fall’s new releases Diane by Diane von Furstenburg.  It’s an actual green floral with no fruit in it, frangipani over violet and is quite  a lovely, classic fragrance, elegant and easy to wear, but it too, does not have a final drydown.  Properly speaking it gets up to fifty five and then it’s done.  There will be no breaking of the speed limit in that little vehicle.

Oh well, I’m not advocating the development of a new fleet of road hog green florals dominating the highways and by-ways of olfaction like so many airbourne Mr. Toads out for a spin, but it might be nice to find a way to drive green from morning till night that did not drift into Chypre’s lane and cause a taxonomic smash up.

Be Sociable, Share!
This entry was posted in Perfume and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to The Green Two Stroke Engine

  1. Bob Pegram says:

    Two strokes stink, literally! That smell could only be considered a perfume for wild women who earn the smell by close association with said engines! Four strokes were used first in cars. Two stokes tended to be used in motorcycles and still are in small, light tools such as chain saws and gas trimmers. Yes, your Trabant was a two stroke, but one of the last 2 stoke cars. Early Saabs are the most famous western made two strokes, but as far as I know, all of the two stroke vehicles came after WWII. Going on to your latest post; why do I have to install dictionary extensions in my browsers for words such as anosmic?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>